12 volt vs 24 volt solar setup pros and cons



Since the question has come up, in this video, I share the pros and cons of choosing a low vs a high voltage {solar lights} system. Should you go with a 12 volt system or a 24 volt {solar lights} system setup?

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{solar lights} & Wind EBooks
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11 Comments on "12 volt vs 24 volt solar setup pros and cons"

  1. good explanation

  2. My cables don't even get warm with 12 or 24 volts so heat is not a problem for me. I am using a inverter 115 AC. Aren't amps more important than Volts? With 12 volt solar panels i will get more amps than 24 volt solar panels. Will i get more power with 12 volts vs 24 volts? Because my solar panels have 12 volt and 24 volt jumper wich should i choose 12 or 24 volts to get most power?

  3. Chris Kelly says:

    Very nice, well thought out and put together. I can't agree with you more about current vs voltage and wiring. I might add, its awfully nice to have the added capacity of 2 batteries in a 24 volt system along with, as you said…. the higher voltage lower current. Thanks for your video.

  4. I noticed you have Square D breakers. Are they rated for DC? None in my area are. IF they are, what is the model number. Thanks!

  5. Jimmy Lin says:

    How do you connect the 12v LED lamp to the solar system? Directly from the battery bank or something else?

    And how do you connect the battery bank to the inverter?

    Thank you.

  6. jim lucas says:

    Nice set-up! I have both 12 v and 24 v set-up on my RV roof. 12 v for lighting along with plug and play items then 24 v for my Engel fridge which can be 12/24 vdc or 120 vac. The 24 vdc also feeds my 2,000 watt inverter which in turn feeds a 5,000 btu, 5 amp 120 vac window air conditioner. They say as a rule of thumb that if your at or close to a 1,000 watts of solar then 24 vdc is the way to go and at 2,000 + watts 36 to 48 vdc. Although I have a Pyle 24 vdc to 12 vdc converter i use. Some will say that your load is what determines your solar and battery array but I disagree and have purposely over-sized my system because I wanted to use all my roof space for just the solar panel's only which is why I removed the broken roof top AC and Fantastic exhaust fans since I was replacing the roof anyways to a new EPDM rubber roof. My 6 panel's are the 39" X 67" 250 watt Grid Tie panel's that are series/paralleled to a MPPT 40A, 100 vdc input 800 watt max Renogy Controller. I ran #8 gauge wire and soldered them to the 10 gauge solar panel's instead of using the MC connectors. Over-kill I know but I'm an Electrician by trade and who knows what I'll add next. I'm thinking of adding 8 of the narrow 100 watt panel's 26" X 40" to both sides of the Rv just below the roof line front to back for increased power and because I have NO roof space left, Lol! That way I can run my AC unit at night on a separate MPPT Controller and battery bank. Never thoght I'd go this far but I did.

  7. jim lucas says:

    Amazon ($14) has a orange Double Pole Double Throw knife style transfer switch with an OFF center postion that I'm gonna buy so I can charge 2 different sized battery banks off the Controller because as you know, you can't mix new and older batteries.

  8. jim lucas says:

    I saw some where on youtube where a guy mounted an aluminum 1/8th" plate behind his controller and inverter I guess to help cool it better. The plate was cut 2" bigger on all sides than the device.

  9. Linda Riling says:

    Thank you for the information. Very easy to understand and a great help for us beginners. Keep
    up the great videos…..

  10. Tenwalls says:

    Good information. Would like a further elaboration on the dual voltage setup with the voltage regulator. On large boats with solar capabilities, the engine starting battery system is typically 12 volts while the main system is 24 volts or larger. Charging the starting battery within the entire system would be ideal.

  11. Thanks for the comment. Please watch this video:

    https://youtu.be/F9k9d1ERfVs

    Hope it helps.


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